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Songjiang four-gill perch "the west wind blows on the four-gill perch, and the thunder pine is crisp and greasy." The four-gill perch written by Fan Chengda, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, is the perch produced in Songjiang, a tributary of Huangpu River. Songjiang perch is small, but its yield is not much, but it has a good reputation, mainly because its meat is fine, fat and tender, as white as snow, without fine burrs, and its taste is delicious. For thousands of years, many scholars and poets have praised it. When Hans Zhang, a literary scholar in the Jin Dynasty, was an official outside, an autumn wind blew, which reminded him of his homesickness. He abandoned his official position and went back to his hometown. Xin Qiji, a great poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, has a saying: "Don't say that the perch is terrible, and the west wind is gone, but the season eagle has not returned?" Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty went to the south of the Yangtze River twice, and both of them specially rushed to Songjiang Prefecture to eat four-gill perch, which was highly praised and ordered to offer sacrifices to perch every year. This kind of fish is small and spindle-shaped, about 12 centimeters long, but it weighs no more than two or three times. Its head is big and flat, its eyes are small and it is born above, its mouth is fan-shaped and scaleless, its back is yellowish brown, its abdomen is grayish white, and it is covered with four or five black stripes. Strangely, Songjiang perch still has water in its gill chamber after it leaves the water. If it is placed in rice chaff, it can live for four or five days. Because this fish has a dent in the front and back of each gill, its shape and color are like gill holes, and there is an orange-red stripe on the gill cover, which looks very similar to four exposed gill leaves. Therefore, in ancient times, people thought that Songjiang perch had four gills. Its characteristics are: Songjiang perch is tender and fat, fresh and fishy, and it is the most delicious of wild fish, and it is one of the four famous fish in China.
Reprinted with attribution:
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